Just arrived on our campsite for tonight after a 3.5 h drive from Leh. Up till Chilling the road was perfect (probably for military purposes, the army is everywhere). First we followed the Zanksar valley and then turned to the Markha valley where the road is no more than an icy, rocky trail. Altogether a spectacular ride through half-frozen rivers with sublime views on snowy mountains. The horseman was already on site. We have set up the tents and started cooking. It’s freaking cold, about minus 20 and the sun has only set half an hour ago. Tomorrow we are heading for Thochuntse.